Mylius-Prou: The largest influence that fabric compositions have on cutting technologies concerns the blades and the actions of the blade while cutting. RIVET: How does the composition of fabrics affect cutting technologies? A few years ago, we also began providing lean product development and lean manufacturing offers to our customers to bring a much larger scope of activities into the picture, measuring and improving productivity and efficiency in and around product development and cutting rooms. Mylius-Prou: For some time now, we have concentrated on improving the product development, industrialization and cutting activities. RIVET: Where do you see areas that need improvement? Our dedicated cutting solutions for denim have been on the market for more than 10 years, with improvements to each generation, and are a reference in the industry in terms of quality, reliability, and productivity. Mylius-Prou: As far as cutting technology is concerned, Lectra has a significant advance on the competition in regards to denim fabrics. RIVET: How is Lectra keeping up with the pace of fabric innovation? Once post treatments and washes are selected, shrinkage values for the combination of post treatments are calculated on fabric samples or sewn garments and easily applied to patterns to insure the accuracy of fit. Lectra’s Modaris 3D allows designers, merchandisers, and pattern-makers to work hand in hand to select the new treatments to apply. Adequate precautions must be made to calculate shrinkage values and adjust the geometries of the patterns accordingly. Denim fabric has, by nature, significant shrinkage and many of these washes and post treatments are applied to the sewn garments, significantly affecting the accuracy of fit. All these techniques give the fabric a softer feel and enhance consumer appeal. Mylius-Prou: Today’s array of treatments/washes vary from clean to coated, destroyed, to stone washed, acid washed, dirty washed and vintage washed to laser burned, ripped, batched, crushed, whiskered, sandblasted, screen-printed, tinted and bleached. RIVET: How do washes and treatments affecting the accuracy of fit? Add stretchy new high-tech fabrics into the mix and multiple trials to decide which finishing treatments to use, and the product development process becomes time-consuming, labor-intensive, and expensive. For this reason, being able to predict how denim will look and behave after being washed, chemically treated or mechanically distressed is also key to good design and development. Mylius-Prou: Denim wear is more affected by shrinkage than any other clothing category.
LECTRA MODARIS 3D LAYER HOW TO
A pair of jeans can have as many as 24 different measurements from waist to ankle determining what those should be and how to translate them into other sizes, can be a mammoth task. It’s also important to point out that fit has always been challenging for the denim jean industry. Moreover, the growing demand for denim in China and other international markets is posing new challenges as companies adapt their styles and sizing to accommodate a wider range of morphologies across different regions. Mylius-Prou: Denim brands are racing to keep up with the pace of fast fashion, designing and delivering new, on-trend styles to the market quickly, while dealing with added expenses linked to rising labor costs and the pressure to use environmentally responsible fabrics and production methods.
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RIVET: What are the biggest design and development challenges facing the denim industry? RIVET spoke with Mylius-Prou about the innovations Lectra is bringing forward to adapt to denim’s ever-changing needs.
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“An efficient supply chain has never been more crucial here: design elements and finishing treatments need to be selected, applied and modified quickly, and production needs to be fast and precise, so that the stylish, perfect-fitting pair of jeans can make it onto the stores on time to capitalize on new market trends,” she said. That demand for flexibility has never been more valuable to denim companies in the chase for the next trends and big idea.
LECTRA MODARIS 3D LAYER FULL
“With a full range of machines dedicated to different types of production from flexible just-in-time production to high volume flexible production to mass production, we can offer the right product for the job at hand,” Laura Mylius-Prou, Lectra marketing project manager for retailing ecosystems – fashion and apparel, told Rivet. The company’s technology offerings include the automated cutting solutions, Vector, and Modaris 3D, a 3D technology that runs throughout the development process from design to subcontractors and producers.
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Lectra provides the global textile industry software, automated cutting equipment and related services designed to reduce errors, waste, and production time, and improve companies’ overall workflow. Adapting to a wide variety of denim fabric properties is nothing new for Lectra, the France-based integrated technology solutions company.